Kimono Measurements

The prime reason you won’t find a legitimate kimono paper pattern is because you don’t need one. As there are only really two measurements you will need in order to calculate all the rectangular pieces that make up a kimono or a haori.

The single most important one – the one that determines how you will measure everything else – is the yuki. This is the length from the middle of the nape of the neck, along the shoulder and down to where you want your sleeve to end on your arm. Most kimonos have a 3/4 sleeve length because they’re long and they’ll get in the way of everything if you take it all the way to the wrist. Because the width of the sleeve is exactly half a yuki, and so is each body panel, there will always be a pleasing architectural balance between body and sleeve, no matter what your yuki measurement is. However, you can of course make the sleeve reach to beyond your hands if you like, but it will really change the balance of the garment.

Line drawing and text of a body in black, with red arrows indicating where to measure from nape to arm to find the yuki measurement.

Click here for a downloadable pdf of this image for your convenience.

Once you’ve established the yuki measurement, double it, add on about 10 cm and that is the width of fabric you should be aiming for. Similarly, once you’ve established the length you want, double that, add 10 cm and you know how many meters you need.

Practical scenario:

I have found out that my yuki is 64 cm and, since I plan to make a kimono that falls to my ankles, my height measurement is 127 cm, I will look for a fabric that is approx. 140 or wider in width and I will need about 3 meters of it. This not only gives me enough for a generous hem but also gives me the option to make a sash in the same fabric for it. If I want to buy lining, too, I am looking for the same width, but might do with 2.6, since I won’t be needing the collar pieces for the lining.

As you can see, we are not making a very fitted garment, and we can make fairly substantial adjustments just by messing with the seam allowances on the body panels and the sleeves. Also please note that this way of measuring gives you a sleeve bag that is half your height – which is very dramatic. You could certainly make them shorter by allowing a more generous seam allowance for the bottom of the sleeves, or simply cutting the sleeves shorter and using the extra fabric for a cute little string purse.

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