This is just a simple PDF you can download and use. But first, you will need to measure your yuki and decide how long you’d like the haori to be. I strongly advise you to choose a fairly wide fabric, as this will allow for you to cut the body piece alongside the collar (which needs to be 15cm wide and the length of the body piece plus about 20 cm). As long as you don’t have to match any patterns at the seams, you can easily make this out of 3 meters of fabric or less, depending on the width. If you’d like to make a lined version, simply cut the same pieces as the outer fabric, except for the collar (Or you could use the lining fabric as the collar for accent. See my Ballet Pink Haori for this)
Once you’ve cut out your body piece, which should be your Yuki plus 4 cm for seam allowance, the collar (which, if you have a nice wide fabric, you should be able to get just to the side of the body piece, you should have enough spare at the bottom to cut two sleeve pieces, which should be 1/2 a yuki wide each, plus 4 cm for seam allowance, and as long or short as you want. Remember that, like the body piece, they are folded over the arm, not seamed at the shoulder.
You need very little in the way of tools to make this. At its most basic, you need scissors, needle and thread, pins, a ruler and fabric chalk or marker. But the one thing you cannot do without is an iron. Getting those dotted lines ironed into the fabric will keep you oriented, so re-iron any time you feel the need.
Once you’ve cut out all the blocks, fold your body piece in half, iron in that centre line, and cut out the neck and lapel hole on the fold side. So, 3.5 cm above the shoulder fold, and 6 cm in along the body. Now you can see that the back has no seam, and the front drapes over the shoulder with the neck and lapel cutaway.
I advise you to finish all the raw edges, except for the neck and lapel edges, before putting the garment together (the collar is going to enclose the neck and front lapel edges). It’s going to make your life a lot easier.
There are only two difficult parts of this garment. One is getting the collar piece on straight and neat, and the other is getting some ease under the arm, so the fabric doesn’t bunch up. If you follow along with Billy Matsunaga’s video tutorial, everything will become clear.
You can either right click the image above to save it, or download a pdf version here.