Garments in Progress

Padded Hanten Jacket – Part 1

Madeleine — Mon, 17 Nov 2025 07:45:31 +0000

A hanten is a short jacket that, like a haori, doesn’t have the okumi (the over lapping front flaps) of a kimono. There is the unpadded variety that groups like Taiko drummers wear, or the winter padded variety that were originally worn by everyday people in the winter to stay warm. It’s the second type I am setting out to make here. But the image below shows the basic construction.

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Making a Jinbei (part 3)

Madeleine — Sat, 31 May 2025 08:35:14 +0000

With the pieces all cut out, Dora has come to help with the jinbei. Today I’m dealing with the seam finishes: different raw edge finishes for different areas. I’m more concerned about the jinbei top than the shorts, simply because I’m a little obsessive about a nice finish for it. I had decided that the back seam required the neatest of all of the raw edge finishes, and the fabric is very…

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Making a Jinbei (part 2)

Madeleine — Thu, 29 May 2025 21:14:19 +0000

Looking over the cutting plan on the free downloadable jinbei pattern, I thought I’d like it a little roomier, but the large was going to be too big. Also, I felt I could probably manage to be a little more economical with fabric and save myself a little time by cutting folded fabric, so I came up with this schema for using on the 145 cm fabric I bought, which had rather nice selvages too…

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Making a Jinbei (part 1)

Madeleine — Wed, 28 May 2025 10:01:33 +0000

A jinbei is a set of garments: a top which crosses over to tie both inside and outside, and either a pair of shorts or long pants. The waist of the shorts/pants are either elastic or with a drawstring. These were clothes meant for lounging around the house during the summer or for sleepwear, and originally only for men, but in recent times they’ve become popular with women also. Muji has some for…

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Formal Indigo Wave Lined Kimono

Madeleine — Fri, 16 May 2025 14:40:24 +0000

This was my first lined men’s kimono. I found a bolt of blue-black cotton fabric that was fairly thick and robust with the iconic seigaiha pattern on it executed in tiny dots. Even though I found this fabric at an incredibly reasonable price – just 6 Euros per meter, it had the look and feel of something very traditional, so I decided to line it in an elegant, high quality sand coloured…

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Dramatic Haori in Mantón- Style Embroidered Fabric

Madeleine — Fri, 16 May 2025 14:26:04 +0000

When I get into a fabric store, sometimes the fabrics speak to me. They sometimes tell me what they want to be. When I saw this fabric, I knew it had to be a haori for someone very specific. At the time I saw the fabric, I couldn’t have told you why I felt it would make a beautiful haori. I just knew it would. The fabric’s machine embroidery is very much in the style of the embroidery…

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Ballet Pink Gauze and Print Haori

Madeleine — Fri, 16 May 2025 14:12:58 +0000

One of the creative decisions you can make with kimono is how to approach the collar. The structure is pretty much a fixed thing, but if you’re lining the garment, you can decide whether to make the collar from the outer fabric, or the lining. I wanted to make something quite informal and cosy for my brother. He wanted something to wear instead of his bathrobe or a sweater on chilly mornings…

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