Making a Jinbei (part 2)

Looking over the cutting plan on the free downloadable jinbei pattern, I thought I’d like it a little roomier, but the large was going to be too big. Also, I felt I could probably manage to be a little more economical with fabric and save myself a little time by cutting folded fabric, so I came up with this schema for using on the 145 cm fabric I bought, which had rather nice selvages too, which would save me some time on raw edge finishing.

A greyscale schema detailing the layout for cutting the pieces of the jinbei pattern.

As you can see, with this layout, I get a slightly larger garment, but only require 2 metres (instead of the 2.5 required by the free pattern) of fabric to make it. The side-seams of the shorts use selvage, so softer to sleep on, too. The four ties that keep the garment closed can be made from the sundry scraps. Remember that I am including a 2 cm seam allowance on all seams. But remember that, should you want the top a little bigger or a little smaller, you can adjust the seam allowance by a centimetre or two and still use the same schema. On the shorts, just add or subtract a centimetre or two off the side seams. Keep the inside seams on the shorts at 1 cm seam allowance. As you do not really want too much bulk inside there.

You can either cut the waistband and the collar strips off the un-folded fabric first, or do it after, but this way I had much less cutting and far less fabric waste. A downloadable pdf version of this layout is here if you’d like to use it.

The fabric I got for this is lovely, soft, cool, voile cotton, but is skittery as hell, so the measuring, marking, drawing the pieces onto it with fabric pen, and cutting the pieces out was a LOT easier with the two layers of fabric.

I have now cut out all the pieces. I’m thinking of joining the back body pieces with a french seam, because my fabric is so thin and soft, but I shall do turned and stitched seams for the rest. Because this is for me to sleep in, I’ll do most of the sewing by machine, but I’m guessing the collar will still go on more easily and neatly by hand.

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